Our World in Food

In search of sustainable food systems: back home in Seattle, Washington

How to Make Aged Goat Cheese April 25, 2012

Filed under: France,Hèrault,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 8:49 am
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Todos estos quesos son quesos de cabra. Hechos con moldes diferentes, de tamaños diferentes y con procesos diferentes, los sabores cambian muchísimo!

In France, slightly aged goat cheese is called fromage de chèvre crémeux, and depending on where these small goat cheese rounds are produced they go by a different names. For example, the Rhône-Alpes region is known for Saint-Marcellin, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is known for Pélardon and the Rhône river region for Picodon. These cheeses are all aged for about a week to two weeks, allowing a wrinkly, ivory crust to form on the outside and a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth texture to develop on the inside. They taste rich, nutty, slightly salty and are extremely odorous!

How to Make Aged Goat Cheese, Fromage de Chèvre Crémeux

To make this kind of goat cheese you follow the same steps to make fresh goat cheese as described in the post How to Make Chèvre Frais: acidification, coagulation, shaping, draining, turning and demolding. At the end however, three extra steps are added: salting, drying and aging.

 

Justo cuando los quesos frescos salen de sus moldes se salan lijeramente. Esto agrega sabor y ayuda a secar al queso.

 

SALTING: Immediately after the little fresh cheese rounds are popped out of their molds and placed on an elevated rack, they are dusted with a thin layer of pure sea salt and left to rest and continue draining whey. After about 8 hours (usually in the evening) they are flipped and salted on the other side.

 

A estos quesitos se los deja secar y afinar durante una a dos semanas, asi se les forma la crostita blanca al rededor y se mantienen bien cremosos al interior.

DRYING AND AGING: The cheese rounds will continue to drip liquid for a couple of days and will reduce significantly in size. From this point forward the cheeses should be carefully flipped once a day and left to age for a week to produce a creamy cheese, and for two weeks to produce a dryer cheese.

There are a couple of tricks to ensure that an even white crust forms on the outside of the cheese. The first is to never let drying cheeses touch. There should always be a little bit of space between each cheese round. The white crust that forms is a particular type of mold called geotrichum candidum. In the beginning of the cheese-making season there are few spores of this mold in the air, so Carole purchases packages of this mold, dilutes it in water and quickly sprays it onto the cheese. She does this the first few weeks of cheese-making to increase the amount of this mold spore in the cheese-making room. Later in the season the white crust will form quickly and on its own.

Once a nice crust forms around the cheese they are placed in a drying room. This room has all moisture sucked out of it mechanically, causing the white crust to harden a little and seal in any remaining moisture left in the cheese. This will give the cheese its creamy texture! The cheese is left in the drying room for just a few hours, and then is transferred to the cave. Every good cheese-maker has a cave for the affinage of the cheese, and they pride themselves on this aging process. Even if customers are willing to buy her cheese, Carole will not sell it until it is at the perfect, ripe age, ensuring full flavor and quality.

There are infinite varieties of goat cheese. The flavor and texture changes based on the shape, size, how much it is flipped, how long it is aged and what extra ingredients are added. For example, one of my favorites was called Lauze. It was molded into a thin square, painted with fine vegetable ash, and aged for 10 days. The result: a cheese that once cut oozed onto your plate, begging you to eat it!

 

Este queso era uno de mis favoritos de Roquecave, se llama Lauze. Como es bien finito se mantiene super cremoso y untable por dentro.

 

I could clearly go on and on about cheese; it’s fascinating! But alas, my cheese-making days at Roquecave have come to an end. I left the farm about a week ago and met up with my family to travel together through Southwestern France. I’m being completely spoiled! We stay in hotels, eat out at restaurants and visit castles all day! The reason I’ve been able to travel all around the world for the past two years is because I economize and hardly ever grant myself these luxuries. It’s a different kind of travel, and I am so grateful to my family to get to experience them both!

 

Pélardon Pané

Filed under: France,Hèrault,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 8:18 am
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Este plato fue mi favorito en la granja Roquecave. Es simplemente un queso de cabra revuelto en harina, huevo, pan rallado y frito!

If I had to pick the most delicious dish I ate at Roquecave Ferme des Chèvres, it would be this ridiculously simple fried cheese called Pélardon pané. Each person is served their own individual round of fried goat cheese that has been dusted in flour, dipped in egg and covered in bread crumbs. It MUST be served with a fresh salad for the lovely contrast of textures  and because otherwise you feel like a total glutton!

Carole made a gluten-free version for me! She simply rolled the cheese in chestnut flour and then fried it. Chestnut flour is naturally sweet and the combination was spectacular!

Pélardon Pané

 

  • 1 round of slightly aged goat cheese per person
  • An egg, beaten
  • Flour
  • Bread crumbs
  • Drizzle of neutral oil

 

  1. Place the beaten egg in a bowl, the flour on a plate and the bread crumbs on a separate plate.
  2. Pat flour onto each cheese round, then dip in the egg and lastly cover completely in bread crumbs.
  3. Heat a pan with some oil and fry each cheese until golden on both sides.
  4. Serve with salad!
 

Petit Chèvre Frais, Two Recipes April 15, 2012

Filed under: France,Hèrault,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 10:42 pm
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Fromage de chèvre frais or petit chèvre frais, otherwise known as fresh goat cheese should be at least 48 hours old and at most a few days old. That means from the moment of milking. Fresh goat cheese requires a slow fermentation process; meaning the milk sits at a warm temperature and acidifies over a period of 24 hours. After this, the curd is scooped by hand into molds and left to rest and drain (whey) for another 24 hours. The cheese is then popped out of its mold and immediately sold. It should be bright white, wet, very fragile and taste excitingly sour, like yogurt.

Here are two, simple recipe ideas for fresh goat cheese: a savory appetizer or dip and a quick dessert.

 

Queso fresco de cabra con aceite de oliva, ajo y hierbas.

Petit Chèvre Frais, Salé

  • Sliced, toasted baguette, crackers or raw vegetables (called crudité)
  • 1 or 2 fresh goat cheese rounds
  • Fresh herbs of choice like oregano, thyme, chives, parsley, basil and/or rosemary
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • Salt, to taste
  • Olive oil

 

  1. All you have to do here is beat the cheese with the fresh herbs, garlic and salt, and then add olive oil until you reach your desired consistency. Serve as a dip.

Other ideas for flavoring fresh goat cheese dip: pesto, tapenade or chives.

 

Un postre Francés super simple: queso fresco de cabra con el dulce que quieras! Este dulce es mi preferido, de castañas.

Petit Chèvre Frais, Sucrée

 

  • 1 small round of fresh goat cheese per person
  • Jam or preserves

 

  1. Place the cheese round in a nice serving dish and top with a dollop of jam or preserves. Serve as dessert. I would go for sweet topping options like strawberry or apricot jam. Honey is delicious with toasted nuts. If you can find crème de marrón, chestnut preserves, you’ll melt with pleasure. Homemade crème de marrón and fresh goat cheese is the best dessert I’ve had so far in France!
 

Cooking Up Crêpes in Montpellier April 3, 2012

Filed under: France,Montpellier — Nicole @ 9:41 pm
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You know you’re in France when it seems every shop is either a Tabac, a cafe or a crêperie. I spent a couple of days in Montpellier on my way to a WWOOF farm in southwestern France and my host taught me how to make crêpes. Now, unfortunately, on this trip I have discovered that I have gluten sensitivity, meaning that eating those delicious crêpes made me feel really crummy for a day. But I had to do it in the name of French cuisine!

I want to learn why French cuisine is considered one of the best in the world. Thankfully, unlike when I was in Italy discovering Italian cuisine, French cuisine actually does not require very much wheat! The only time of day that the French always eat wheat is in the morning; the typical French breakfast is a bowl of tea or coffee (a bowl not a mug, so that you can easily dip things into it) and toast with butter and jam. Bread is also served at lunch and dinner, but at those times it is optional. However, freshly made crêpes served for breakfast, those are not optional! And they are worth it! My host’s recipe and a few of her family’s secrets are provided below.

I’ve started researching gluten-free alternatives and experimenting with different flours in my baking. I’m quite pleased and surprised with the results! While at the farmer’s market last week I asked a flour producer which gluten-free flour I could use to make crêpes. She handed me 200 grams of buckwheat flour and told me that in Brittany, in the northwest of France where crêpes originated, savory crêpes are always made with buckwheat flour and sweet ones with wheat flour. All I had to do was mix water and a little salt into the flour until the batter reached a nice consistency and then let it rest in the fridge for at least 6 hours. I could then use the batter like normal batter. Simple, gluten-free and vegan!

While eating out at a Crêperie in Montpellier, I also learned that in Brittany savory crêpes are traditionally served with hard apple cider. So I ordered a smoked salmon crêpe with crème fraîche and chilled apple cider. A delicious combination!

En Francia los crêpes salados de preparan con harina de trigo negro y se sirven con cidra. Una combinación deliciosa!


Crêpes Salées, Savory Crêpes 

Makes 10 medium crêpes

  • 200 gr buckwheat flour
  • 75ml water
  • A pinch of salt
  1. Whisk all ingredients together and let the batter rest in the fridge for at least 6 hours.
  2. Heat your crêpe pan and swipe with a paper towel dipped in oil. Ladle some batter onto the pan and turn to evenly spread it out into a circle. Cook until just pale golden. Place finished crêpes onto a plate over a pot of boiling water as before or fill immediately and serve.
  3. I used this recipe to make argentine canelones, which are crêpes usually filled with ricotta and spinach, rolled into a tube and baked with tomato sauce. They turned out great!

 

En Francia los crêpes dulces normalmente se sirven con azucar granulado y jugo de limón o con Nutella.

 

Crêpes Sucrées, Sweet Crêpes

Charlotte’s recipe. Makes 12 large, sweet crêpes

  • 2 cups wheat flour
  • 3 eggs
  • 4 cups milk
  • 1 TB sugar or more as you like
  • 1 TB neutral vegetable oil
  • Pinch of salt
  • Dash of aroma like vanilla, orange blossom or rum
  1. Boil a pot half full of water and cover with a plate. You will rest the finished crêpes here and cover them with foil.
  2. Sift flour, salt and sugar into a bowl. Mix in one egg at a time and the oil. Then while whisking slowly add the milk and aroma. It’s always a good idea to let crêpe batter rest for at least an hour, try making the batter ahead.
  3. There are several tricks to making the perfect crêpe. Make sure you’ve got the right pan: large, round, flat and non-stick. Next, it’s got to be hot! Swipe a paper towel with oil all over the pan. Take a ladleful of batter and pour it slowly onto the tilted pan while turning to evenly spread the batter out into a circle. Quickly flip when lightly golden. Place the finished crêpes onto the plate over boiling water and cover with foil.
  4. In France the two traditional sweet crêpe fillings are fresh-squeezed lemon juice with granulated sugar or Nutella. I love adding banana slices and toasted nuts to Nutella.