Our World in Food

In search of sustainable food systems: back home in Seattle, Washington

How to Make Aged Goat Cheese April 25, 2012

Filed under: France,Hèrault,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 8:49 am
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Todos estos quesos son quesos de cabra. Hechos con moldes diferentes, de tamaños diferentes y con procesos diferentes, los sabores cambian muchísimo!

In France, slightly aged goat cheese is called fromage de chèvre crémeux, and depending on where these small goat cheese rounds are produced they go by a different names. For example, the Rhône-Alpes region is known for Saint-Marcellin, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is known for Pélardon and the Rhône river region for Picodon. These cheeses are all aged for about a week to two weeks, allowing a wrinkly, ivory crust to form on the outside and a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth texture to develop on the inside. They taste rich, nutty, slightly salty and are extremely odorous!

How to Make Aged Goat Cheese, Fromage de Chèvre Crémeux

To make this kind of goat cheese you follow the same steps to make fresh goat cheese as described in the post How to Make Chèvre Frais: acidification, coagulation, shaping, draining, turning and demolding. At the end however, three extra steps are added: salting, drying and aging.

 

Justo cuando los quesos frescos salen de sus moldes se salan lijeramente. Esto agrega sabor y ayuda a secar al queso.

 

SALTING: Immediately after the little fresh cheese rounds are popped out of their molds and placed on an elevated rack, they are dusted with a thin layer of pure sea salt and left to rest and continue draining whey. After about 8 hours (usually in the evening) they are flipped and salted on the other side.

 

A estos quesitos se los deja secar y afinar durante una a dos semanas, asi se les forma la crostita blanca al rededor y se mantienen bien cremosos al interior.

DRYING AND AGING: The cheese rounds will continue to drip liquid for a couple of days and will reduce significantly in size. From this point forward the cheeses should be carefully flipped once a day and left to age for a week to produce a creamy cheese, and for two weeks to produce a dryer cheese.

There are a couple of tricks to ensure that an even white crust forms on the outside of the cheese. The first is to never let drying cheeses touch. There should always be a little bit of space between each cheese round. The white crust that forms is a particular type of mold called geotrichum candidum. In the beginning of the cheese-making season there are few spores of this mold in the air, so Carole purchases packages of this mold, dilutes it in water and quickly sprays it onto the cheese. She does this the first few weeks of cheese-making to increase the amount of this mold spore in the cheese-making room. Later in the season the white crust will form quickly and on its own.

Once a nice crust forms around the cheese they are placed in a drying room. This room has all moisture sucked out of it mechanically, causing the white crust to harden a little and seal in any remaining moisture left in the cheese. This will give the cheese its creamy texture! The cheese is left in the drying room for just a few hours, and then is transferred to the cave. Every good cheese-maker has a cave for the affinage of the cheese, and they pride themselves on this aging process. Even if customers are willing to buy her cheese, Carole will not sell it until it is at the perfect, ripe age, ensuring full flavor and quality.

There are infinite varieties of goat cheese. The flavor and texture changes based on the shape, size, how much it is flipped, how long it is aged and what extra ingredients are added. For example, one of my favorites was called Lauze. It was molded into a thin square, painted with fine vegetable ash, and aged for 10 days. The result: a cheese that once cut oozed onto your plate, begging you to eat it!

 

Este queso era uno de mis favoritos de Roquecave, se llama Lauze. Como es bien finito se mantiene super cremoso y untable por dentro.

 

I could clearly go on and on about cheese; it’s fascinating! But alas, my cheese-making days at Roquecave have come to an end. I left the farm about a week ago and met up with my family to travel together through Southwestern France. I’m being completely spoiled! We stay in hotels, eat out at restaurants and visit castles all day! The reason I’ve been able to travel all around the world for the past two years is because I economize and hardly ever grant myself these luxuries. It’s a different kind of travel, and I am so grateful to my family to get to experience them both!

 

Pélardon Pané

Filed under: France,Hèrault,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 8:18 am
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Este plato fue mi favorito en la granja Roquecave. Es simplemente un queso de cabra revuelto en harina, huevo, pan rallado y frito!

If I had to pick the most delicious dish I ate at Roquecave Ferme des Chèvres, it would be this ridiculously simple fried cheese called Pélardon pané. Each person is served their own individual round of fried goat cheese that has been dusted in flour, dipped in egg and covered in bread crumbs. It MUST be served with a fresh salad for the lovely contrast of textures  and because otherwise you feel like a total glutton!

Carole made a gluten-free version for me! She simply rolled the cheese in chestnut flour and then fried it. Chestnut flour is naturally sweet and the combination was spectacular!

Pélardon Pané

 

  • 1 round of slightly aged goat cheese per person
  • An egg, beaten
  • Flour
  • Bread crumbs
  • Drizzle of neutral oil

 

  1. Place the beaten egg in a bowl, the flour on a plate and the bread crumbs on a separate plate.
  2. Pat flour onto each cheese round, then dip in the egg and lastly cover completely in bread crumbs.
  3. Heat a pan with some oil and fry each cheese until golden on both sides.
  4. Serve with salad!
 

Cheesecake de Chèvre April 17, 2012

Filed under: France,Hèrault,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 10:02 pm
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Mi torta de cumpleaños este año fue un cheesecake hecho con queso fresco de cabra servido con ciruelas en almibar. Hecho con casi todo de la granja, fue una delicia!

 

A couple of weeks ago I celebrated my birthday here at Roquecave Ferme des Chèvres. Every year I like to celebrate with a cake, but this would be my first year celebrating with a gluten-free cake. I thought about using gluten-free flours, but then I remembered that I’m surrounded by cheese and could make a killer cheesecake! The other WWOOF volunteer on the farm and I made her friend, Krishenka’s, simple cheesecake recipe. It was fantastic!

Like all cheesecake recipes it requires a day of refrigeration and thus should be made a day ahead of time. We used fresh goat cheese (of course!) but the original recipe is made with cream cheese. It is best decorated or served with fresh or preserved fruit. We used plums preserved in sugar syrup, but any fresh or preserved berry would be fantastic too.

 

Cheesecake de Chèvre

Adapted from Krishenka’s Cheesecake Recipe

 

  • 1 package of crunchy cookies (we used gluten-free oat cookies)
  • 80 gr of butter
  • 5 rounds of fresh goat cheese (weighing about 100 gr each)
  • 1 can of sweetened condensed milk
  • Juice and zest of half a lemon
  • Pinch of salt
  • Fresh fruit or preserves

 

  1. Crush the cookies in a bag with the bottom of a glass bottle until sandy. You can add chopped nuts or used a flavored cookie (like ginger) for a richer crust. Melt the butter in a pan and throw in the cookies crumbs. Add more butter if needed until all the crumbs are coated.
  2. Butter a 9 inch spring-form pan and press the buttered cookie crumbs into the bottom and the sides too if you like, but it’s not necessary. Place in the fridge as you prepare the rest of the cake.
  3. With a fork, mix the fresh cheese with the sweetened condensed milk, zest, juice and pinch of salt until creamy. Add less sweetened condensed milk if you prefer a more sour cake. Pour over crust and smooth with a spatula. Refrigerate for about 24 hours.
  4. When it’s time to serve the cake, pop it out of its mold and decorate with fresh fruit over top or serve with a dollop of fruit preserves.
 

How to Make Chèvre Frais

Filed under: France,Hèrault,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 9:57 pm
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The most basic of all goat cheese is fresh goat cheese, called fromage de chèvre frais. Fresh meaning about 48 hours old from the moment of milking. This is a super quick and easy cheese that can be made at home! There are a few special ingredients: raw milk, whey and rennet, and you’ll need some sort of small, punctured mold. I’ll describe the process we went through to make petit chèvre frais at Roquecave Ferme des Chèvres.

There are 6 steps to follow: acidification, coagulation, shaping, turning, draining, and demolding.

How to Make Fresh Goat Cheese

ACIDIFICATION: The milk should be at room temperature for this step, about 22 degrees Celsius. At Roquecave we usually use the milk from two or three milkings, so it is at most 24 hours old (as we milked the goats twice a day). We also do not add packaged cultures to the milk. Instead, we collect some whey from the previous cheese-making day and add it to the fresh milk. This whey is full of bacteria which happily begin to transform the lactose in milk into lactic acid and thereby acidify the milk. Acidification is essential. Carole always says “pas d’acidification, pas de fromage!” We add whey in the amount of about 4% of the total volume of milk and let the mixture rest for 2 hours before proceeding with the next step.

COAGULATION: This is the addition of rennet, (an enzyme found in the belly of young calves) which causes the subsequent separation of curd (milk solids) from whey (mostly water). Fresh goat cheese is made through slow coagulation, over 24 hours. The rennet is mixed into the milk (0.5ml rennet per 10 liters of milk according to the concentration of rennet we were using), poured into individual 15 liter basins, and left to sit at room temperature for 24 hours.

SHAPING: After 24 hours the milk has solidified (curd) and is floating in a transparent, pale yellow liquid (whey). The curd should be quickly scooped with a ladle and carefully placed into a mold. Fresh goat cheese is usually formed into small rounds using a mold about the size of a cup. Each mold should be overfilled as the curd will reduce in size by about half as the whey drains over the next 24 hours.

TURNING AND DRAINING: After about 8 hours of sitting in its mold, the cheese should be flipped and left to sit for the remaining 16 hours. That means popped out of its mold and placed back in upside down. We mold cheese in the morning and flip in the evening, ensures a uniform texture and shape.

DEMOLDING: After 24 hours of sitting in its mold and draining, the cheese is popped out of its mold, flipped and should be sold immediately. It can be lightly salted as this point, but we never salted ours as customers each have their own taste and preference.

Fresh goat cheese is delicious in the morning on toast with jam. It can also be served as an appetizer with savory herbs. See Petit Chèvre Frais, Two Recipes and Cheesecake de Chèvre for a few recipe ideas made with fresh goat cheese.