Our World in Food

In search of sustainable food systems: back home in Seattle, Washington

My Favorite Sandwich in the Whole Wide World September 7, 2011

Filed under: Italy,Tuscany — Nicole @ 7:14 am
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The easiest, quickest Italian lunch is the panino, the sandwich, and I’ve been sampling quite a few since I arrived here 1 month ago. But ladies and gentlemen, I must say, I have found my favorite sandwich in the whole wide world. I know it is a bit bold to say this. I haven’t traveled the whole world, there are thousands of other sandwiches out there to be had, some surely even better than this one. But the moment I bit in to this sandwich was one of those “ahhhh!” shining moments, you know what I mean? When the world stops and your stuck frozen to the spot because your taste buds are so excited the rest of your body has to shut down to compensate for the thrill in your mouth. Am I exaggerating? Probably. Actually, I’m just trying to make this post a little longer than it would be. This sandwich is so simple it doesn’t require much instruction. Another reason why I love it!

SO, what is it? This incredible panino?

My favorite sandwich in the whole wide world is a fresh fig and prosciutto sandwich on toasted focaccia bread.

 

All you have to do to make this fig and prosciutto sandwich is peel a fresh fig, the ripest, sweetest, one you can find. Grab a few thin slices of prosciutto. Cut a slice of focaccia bread, made fresh right out of the oven, in half lengthwise, or if not fresh toast for a few minutes in a warm oven. Then pack all the goodness into that hot focaccia and eat immediately. That’s it, that’s all there is to it!

 

Passata, Tomato Puree

Filed under: Italy,Tuscany — Nicole @ 6:55 am
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Passata, tomato puree, is a great way to preserve tomatoes. You probably know, if you have a garden or have worked in one, that when tomatoes come in to season you have
LOADS of them. Passata is made of cooked, peeled and seeded tomatoes and can serve as the base of any tomato sauce. The process is very simple and once you are done you can have homemade tomato sauce at any time of year! I helped make bottles upon bottles of passata at Il Borgo della Colomba in Tuscany, and then subsequently at other wwoof farms in Italy.

First harvest your tomatoes or buy a ton of the no. 2, cheaper tomatoes at the farmers market! Make sure they are red and ripe.

 

Wash the tomatoes, cut off any bad spot and then cut them into a few chunks (no need to dice them) and throw them in a large pot to cook. Cook just until the skins start to separate from the flesh.

 

At the agritourism we had a very cool contraption that gets rid of the seeds and skin of the tomatoes. All you have to do is scoop some of the cooked tomatoes into the device and turn the handle round and round. Pure tomato sauce will drip into a pot below. Of course, when you have lots of tomatoes to process this step is very time consuming.

 

Then cook this tomato sauce for a couple of hours, or until it has reduced by about one fourth. It should feel and look thick. Bottle the sauce when it’s hot and sterilize by placing in boiling water. These bottles of passata should be good for about one year to 18 months after bottling.

 

10 Days in Tuscany September 1, 2011

Filed under: Italy,Tuscany — Nicole @ 9:14 pm

Il Borgo della Colomba en Toscana

I left Rome for a new WWOOF agritourism in the Northern tip of Tuscany near the town of Sarzana. The place is called Il Borgo della Colomba. Again it is a borgo, a bunch of old Italian houses built together and refurbished into rooms that are rented out to tourists for a night or two. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served for guests, made primarily with ingredients from the property or homemade. On the property there is a garden, olive grove, vineyard, fig trees, donkeys and geese. There is also a pool which guests hugely enjoy (and I had to clean).

I really thought I would like working at Il Borgo della Colomba, rather, I really wanted to like working there, but after a week I realized it was not the place for me. I thought I would get to harvest and help with the cooking for the guests but in reality, I just cleaned all day. There was only one cleaning lady and everyday there were guests that stayed the night and or came to eat. You could usually find me in the kitchen washing dishes, or cleaning in and around the house. This is not my idea of “working on an organic farm.” So after 10 days I left.

I was very upset. Again I failed to find a nice WWOOF farm to stay and work on for a few weeks. I was desperate. So I decided to take my Italian friend’s advice and go South. She is from Calabria, the tip of the boot of Italy (if you see the country as a boot, like I do). Everyone says that people from the South are warmer. They are characterized as present hedonists, meaning instead of focusing on the future (getting a high paying job to make lots of money etc…), or the past (ah, the good ol’ days…) they take advantage and celebrate pleasures that can be enjoyed in the moment. Sounds like my kind of people! So I started researching farms to work on in Southern Italy, specifically, Sicily (the ball that the boot of Italy is kicking). For some reason this island off the Southern coast of Italy intrigues me.

Yes, Tuscany was beautiful, with its endless sunflower fields, beautiful blue coast and neat vineyards, but I think it’s given too much hype! It’s absolutely full of tourists, both Italian and international. And the landscape does not differ that much from other parts of Italy. All of Italy is picturesque!

Vernazza en la Cinque Terre

I did however get to visit the Cinque Terre, which was only 30 minutes away from the farm. These are 5 small Italian towns built on steep sea cliffs (used to be used as look out spots for pirates!). They can each be visited by train, by foot, or by boat. Another WWOOF volunteer from the farm and I took a train in to Monterosso, the farthest of the 5 towns, wandered through the tiny streets and alleyways, and then hiked to the next town of Vernazza. The hike was intense; two hours long and on one of the hottest days of the year. It was 40 degrees and we were hiking up sea cliffs! And of course my travel buddy is a hiker from the states. He had come to work on the farm after having hiked through the Swiss Alps for two weeks. So there I was, chasing after him up the hills, wiping the sweat off my brow and trying to control my breathing when I would finally catch up to him. Yes my friend, there were moments on that hike when you thought I was right behind you, but in fact you were talking to yourself! Of course, some of the best views of the Cinque Terre are from above, so the hike was an excellent idea, just a little tiresome for me…

They say pesto and focaccia are from the region, both of which I ate a lot of! I didn’t get any recipes but I did see that at the agritourism they would commonly serve something called testaroli. This is a large pancake (made with flour, water and salt), filled with shredded parmesan cheese, baked in an oven, and lastly dressed with pesto and sprinkled with a little more parmesan. Simple and delicious!

Testaroli: panqueque relleno de parmesano y cubierto con pesto

There was one day at the agritourism that I got to harvest tomatoes and make tomato
sauce. My favorite job I was given. Because I have had to switch farms twice now, I’ve gotten to see quite a bit of Italy. I spent some time in Piemonte, Rome and Tuscany already. And coming up next will be something totally different…Sicily!

 

The Italian Meal

Filed under: Italy,Tuscany — Nicole @ 9:01 pm

Tutti a tavola!

For the past few weeks here in Italy I have been WWOOFing on agritourisms. These are establishments out in the country that host tourists for a night or two and offer them breakfast, lunch and dinner made mainly using ingredients grown on the property. Agritourisms here in Italy usually have a garden, fruit and nut orchards and care for animals as well. The food they serve is delicious and abundant. Then again that may just be Italian food in general!

My first few days at my first agritourism I couldn’t believe the amount of food that was brought out to the table. Then I learned that Italian meals are made up of many different courses, served one after another over the course of at least an hour. Here is the basic outline for an Italian meal:

APERITIVO

Usually a drink and a light snack while the meal is being prepared.
Like prosecco or Cinzano (both made from grapes) served alone or with olives.

melón con jamón, mi antipasto preferido

ANTIPASTO

This is the appetizer, it is usually a cold dish and salty but can also be sweet and salty. Some common antipasti are prosciutto with melon, bruschetta, various salumi (cured meats like salami, prosciutto or lardo), figs, cheese, tomato with mozzarella.

vino, siempre

DRINKS

Almost every meal is served with red wine, unless there is fish in the menu, in which case white. Sometimes beer. Italians also love fizzy water; some drink carbonated water at every meal or mix some wine into it to make a refreshing fizzy wine.

La pasta con prosciutto

PRIMO PIATTO

Almost always pasta. Italians say that eating pasta at every meal is totally normal. Watch out; don’t eat too much, however good it may be,
even if it’s lasagna! The first time I was served pasta in Italy I didn’t realize that this was just the first course of many and filled up on the pasta!
Pimo piatto can also be a rice dish or soup.

Fresh focaccia

BREAD

Whenever you set a table for Italians you cannot forget bread. Plain, French bread (not baguettes) is served at every meal. But the funny thing is, at both agritourisms I worked at bread was only made once a week. Tons and tons of loaves were made and then stored in a big bag. We would take one out at every meal and slice it into pieces. But this means that by the end of the week we had some pretty stale bread. They didn’t seem to mind and ate it anyways! Sometimes focaccia is made and served fresh out of the oven. Delicious!!

SECONDO PIATTO

Meat or fish. I’ve been served lots of beef, lamb and pork. Or for vegetarians (they exist here!), an elaborate vegetable dish.

CONTORNO

Vegetables served with the secondo piatto. This could raw or cooked vegetables. The strange thing I’ve seen many Italians do is just put a bowl of lettuce next to a plate of whole tomatoes, cucumbers and onions on the table. I personally don’t like chopping vegetables at the table for my salad, but this way everyone has salad the way they like it. Salad is always dressed with olive oil, vinegar and salt.

DOLCE

It never ends does it! There is still dessert. I’ve been served chocolate tart, blackberry custard and tiramisu.

FRUTTA

Fresh fruit, sometimes served with cheese. I’ve been served lots of melon lately since it’s in season.

La Moka

CAFFE

If there is no frutta, coffee comes out with the dessert or just after. Coffee in Italy is always espresso, meaning super dark roasted beans, ground fine, prepared in the metal Italian coffee maker called Moka (after the most well-known brand), and served in small espresso cups. I thought Italians would all drink their coffee black, but many add a spoonful or two of sugar, never milk thought. It’s like a hot, bittersweet energy kick. I’m not a huge fan.

Fernet se toma solo como un degestivo, nunca con coca cola como en Argentina

DIGESTIVO

Believe it or not, it’s still not over! However, this drink is supposed to ease digestion. This is a shot of distilled liquor like grappa, or a flavored liqueur like limoncello. Some Italians serve coffee in a shot glass and then pour grappa into the empty, used shot glass, giving it a coffee flavor. Interesting… I must say, of all the distilled, hard liquor I’ve tried on this trip, grappa (made from grapes) is the most delicious.

And there you have it! The reason most people gain weight when they come to Italy. The food is good and they serve a lot of it!