Our World in Food

In search of sustainable food systems: back home in Seattle, Washington

Trip to Subachoque, Colombia December 23, 2010

Filed under: Colombia,Subachoque — Nicole @ 12:02 pm

One of my favorite parts of my trip to Bogotá was our excursion out to the village of Subachoque. Subachoque is about an hour West of Bogotá in the rolling hills of Colombia. The soil here is a rich and black, the climate is temperate all year round; something is being cultivated on every slope and valley, mostly potatoes and carrots. We spent the day in and around Subachoque, the peace and tranquility, the lush green surroundings and the fresh air were welcome sensations for all of us city-goers. I could have stayed in Subachoque for my entire week in Colombia. I hope to come back some day.

The most delicious food I tried in Colombia: arepas de mazorca. In the town of Subachoque there is a quiet old woman who grinds fresh corn and whips up the most satisfying cheese-filled corn pancakes. Sweet and salty, warm off the grill, I tried others in the city but hers are the best! She refused to divulge her recipe!

Potato fields, everywhere!

The charming potato plant

Potato harvester

The people here seem very kind and welcoming. We stopped at this farm for a quick chat. Those are sacks full of potatoes behind us.

Found a good spot to have lunch, on a rock in the middle of an open field that's up for sale ;)

Lunch! Rotisserie chicken, potatoes, my favorite Colombian beer (also the cheapest, cost less than a dollar) and fresh avocados from a roadside stand.

Lazy girl guacamole: the chicken and potatoes came with ají, which is chopped garlic, parsley, green onions and a touch of red pepper in olive oil. Tasted just like guacamole when paired with avocado!

Serene, speechless, beauty.

Tons of pasture for dairy cows and show horses. I had the most delicious café con leche here in Subachoque.

 

Colombian Drinks December 20, 2010

Filed under: Bogotá,Colombia — Nicole @ 7:55 pm

There are unique drinks prepared in every region of Colombia and in Bogotá a wide variety of these drinks are available. I’ve been trying as many as possible during my short stay in Bogotá. Don’t worry, the majority aren’t alcoholic! This is not an exhaustive list, just what I’ve been able to try and what I’ve seen is most common in this city.

Aguapanela: panela, unrefinded sugarcane, dissolved in water. Either hot or cold and usually with lemon. In Costa Rica the family I was staying with would have this for lunch nearly every day, they called is fresco (it was served cold).

Aguardiente: Colombia sugarcane liquor made with anis. Very strong and usually drunk in shots with lemon. Colombia also produces rum and it’s common to be out at a bar or Colombian restaurant and watch another table order an entire bottle of rum or aguardiente with shot glasses and lemon and down the whole thing!

Canelazo: Hot, alcoholic, cinnamon drink. Made with hot water, panela, cinnamon and aguardiente, sometimes clove and extra spices too. It tastes like Christmas! Very spicy and mildly alcoholic. A hotel nearby was serving this up for free next to their nativity scene (which are EVERYWHERE in this very Catholic country).

Jugo, en agua o con leche: fruit juice. A huge variety of fruits is cultivated in Colombia due to the variations in altitude and climate throughout the country. Bogotá is at the center of it all, so you can find fruit juices of any kind. Usually the fruit is blended with sugar and either water or milk. Fresh mango, mora (berry) and orange juice are my favorites.

Chocolatada: hot chocolate. Cacao is also grown in Colombia, but very little. I’ve tried two different types of hot chocolate while here, and both were prepared the same way. Milk was heated and a piece of chocolate was blended or whisked into it. The first chocolatada I tried was very rustic, prepared with a ball of “chocolate” made of cacao, cinnamon, cloves and lentil, soy, wheat, corn and peanut flours, you had to sweeten it to your liking. It tasted like hot chocolate toast; it was more of a food than a drink! The other was made simply with a piece of dark chocolate whisked in to milk.

Coffee: duh! Colombia is known worldwide for producing some of the highest quality coffee. However, most of the best stuff is exported, bummer. Juan Valdéz Coffee Company, a Colombian coffee company found all over Bogotá, has very high quality standards as well as social and environmental regulations. They have given back tremendously to the cafeteros, coffee growers, by building schools, hospitals and coffee processing facilities, among other social developments. Their coffee shops feel just like Starbucks though, with tons of options and take out cups. I had fun tasting this street coffee served out of a Ghostbuster-looking contraption; you can order tinto (black coffee, not red wine!) or café (short for café con leche).

Aromática: fresh, herbal tea. What I have been drinking the most of. It is traditionally prepared by heating water with panela to a boil and steeping fresh yerbabuena in it (mint, produced in abundance here). I’ve had it additionally with berry-infused water, hibiscus flower and my favorite, fresh lemon grass! I’m taking panela and tons of tea bags of dried yerbabuena and lemon grass with me to continue preparing this. It’s sweet and cozy and the smell is invigorating!

Avena: cold, sweet oat milk: You can find this anywhere on the street. They don’t tell you how it’s made but it tastes like sweetened condensed milk! Very thick, sweet and rich. It’s a snack more than a drink.

Cerveza: beer! What surprised me most after coming from Costa Rica is the wide variety of national beers here in Colombia. In Costa Rica you basically had two national beers to choose from. Here, I can’t keep track! It’s cheap, between $1 to $2 a bottle, and not bad. There are also microbreweries here, even one in Bogotá that has a bar a few blocks away from where I am staying, called the Bogotá Beer Company (BBC). My first night I was invited to try their sampler, a taste of their six beers. After drinking the same beer for three months I was psyched! I never drank beer before this trip, everyone back home knows that, but all of a sudden I’ve acquired a taste for it! Thankfully, because it’s cheaper than any other drink and I’ve still got a lot of traveling to do!

Sodas: Lots of brands, super sweet, nearly all owned by some transnational corporation. This cola is called Colombiana: la nuestra (ours), made by Postobon, Colombian soda corporation, merged with Pepsi and FritoLay. Awesome.

Té de Coca: Last but not least, the most controversial drink: coca leaf tea. No, it is not illegal. No, it is not a drug. Cocaine is derived from the coca leaf but it is heavily processed. The plant itself is central to many Andean cultures (Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador too). The leaf is either chewed or steeped in water as tea. It has several medicinal purposes but is mostly used as a MILD stimulant to suppress hunger, thirst, pain and fatigue. Just from chewing or drinking the tea one does not feel the psychoactive effects of cocaine; it’s perfectly normal to drink. I like it sweetened with panela because otherwise it barely tastes like anything, a little like mild mate. I could go on about the coca controversy in this country but I have not deeply researched the subject. Suffice it to say that the war against the drug trade is in full swing here, it has seriously impacted the lives of many people (especially farmers), but it is progressing, slowly. It ALL begins back home in the states and will NEVER end unless the demand for illicit drugs decreases.

 

Baking in Bogotá December 18, 2010

Filed under: Bogotá,Colombia — Nicole @ 3:18 am

Baking in Bogotá is a challenge because we are at about 8,600 feet of altitude. Until now I always ignored the short notes after recipes with adjustments for high altitudes, now I understand. The family I am staying with has horror stories of brick brownies they nearly threw off the balcony they were so tough. They were justly frightened when I said I wanted to bake for them, and so was I! Thank goodness for Epicurious.com. The website is put together by the people who write Gourmet and Bon Appétit magazines, so they know a thing or two about cooking. They have an excellent article all about High-Altitude baking that saved my butt! You can look it up under articles and guides at their website.

As some of you chemistry nerds may know, there are three variables that affect baking at high altitudes:

  1. Water boils at a lower temperature.
  2. Moisture evaporates quicker.
  3. Leavening gases (air, carbon dioxide and water vapor) expand much quicker.

This means that if you follow a regular recipe at high altitudes, your cakes, cookies, brownies, breads etc.. are likely to either collapse, become hard, not cook entirely or become stale quickly. I wanted to prepare my crowd-pleasing chocolate idiot cake (flourless chocolate cake) and Washington state-shaped sugar cookies my sister had gifted me for Christmas (I know, my sister’s the best!). Online I found there are several simple adjustments to make to ensure recipes turn out alright. Here’s what I adjusted based on my research:

  • For my flourless cake I barely mixed the eggs (to prevent their bubbles from rising and collapsing), I increased the oven temperature by 25 degrees and baked it in a shallower pan for less time.
  • The box cookies came premeasured with flour, sugar, vanilla and leavening agents, all I had to do was add eggs and butter. I decided to add a few more tablespoonfuls of flour, increase the oven temperature and bake them less.

Both my cake and cookies turned out great!! The cookies spread out a bit more than expected and ended up looking like blobs rather than Washington states, but the family couldn’t get over the fact that they weren’t rock hard and loved them anyway!

 

Boozy flourless chocolate cake (Ron Flor de Caña) topped with arequipe (Colombian dulce de leche) and Brazil nuts

Danny enjoying a Washington sugar cookie

I’m curious what bakers do here…Right now I’m sitting at a lovely French bakery eating a chocolate croissant and cappuccino. I know, I could be anywhere, right? But believe it or not, I’m in Bogotá, Colombia. Like I said before, this city is very cosmopolitan, it has developed exponentially in the past ten years. I remember when I was young and my father had to come here on business, he would be picked up at the airport, taken to his hotel and escorted to meetings without ever being on the street on his own. It was much too dangerous. Today there are still dangerous neighborhoods, but the city has improved tremendously. It’s very impressive!

 

 

Fruit Frenzy December 17, 2010

Filed under: Bogotá,Colombia — Nicole @ 5:14 am

Anyone who has crossed my path on this trip knows that the easiest way to make my day is to have me try a new fruit I’ve never seen before. I go nuts. I love fruit, and here there are so many different tropical fruits to try! When I went to El Paloquemao I bought as many as I could afford, and the family I’m staying with surprises me daily with more! Here are some I’ve tried in order of tastiest to least favorite.

 

Guanabana: OMG I love this fruit! It looks huge and menacing, but the skin is thin. The fruit is creamy, white, like custard but sour and juicy. There are a bunch of flat seeds you have to spit out as you eat it, but it's worth it!

Ciruela de huesito: a small sour snack, tastes like candy! There's a big pit in the center but it's fun to suck on too :)

Granadilla: looks like frog eggs when you peel it open. You have to suck the little seeds out and you eat them and the little sack of pulp that surrounds them. The seeds crack like pop rocks and taste super sweet!

Lulo: tastes kind of like a mild kiwi. Most Colombians don't eat it, they make a drink with it

Feijoa: looks just like a short cucumber but tastes very sour. I had it blended into vanilla ice cream, yum!

Pitaya: you peel it like a banana. They say the seeds loosen your stool but I don't know about that. The fruit that I had didn't taste like anything, but I've heard that they are delicious.