Our World in Food

In search of sustainable food systems: back home in Seattle, Washington

One Week in Rome August 23, 2011

Filed under: Italy,Rome and Naples — Nicole @ 8:17 am

En el Coliseo con Guido

 I arrived in Rome and met up with my good friend from Buenos Aires, Guido. He’s been traveling around Europe for a month and we spent a few days together before he left for his next destination, Austria, and before I left to my new WWOOF farm in Tuscany. In Rome I was staying with a friend of Guido’s family, Liliana, in her lovely apartment about 5 subway stops from the center of the city.

Liliana took us out every day; together we did all the touristy things you do when you are in Rome. We went to the coliseum, visited San Pietro (where the pope is), walked along the Tevere river at night and visited all the famous piazzas in the city.

Liliana and her Smart Car, the typical Roman automobile!

Rome is a beautiful city. One of my favorite characteristics of Rome is its network of alleys. There are tiny alleys that wind all over the city where cars cannot pass. You may be walking along a busy street full of traffic, duck into a quiet alley and suddenly be surrounded by pedestrians, bicyclists, and charming bars and cafes. Then, just as suddenly, the alley opens into a vast piazza, with an impressive fountain in the center, artists acting or playing for spare change and people everywhere sitting, standing, smoking or drinking a quick espresso. I could spend hours in those piazzas, just people watching.

Panini!

In the morning we would make a bunch of panini, sandwiches, with salami, tomatoes and cheese on French bread, and leave on foot to tour the city. Rome is an expensive city and eating out, even buying a panini on the street, is costly. Back home our host would usually cook up some pasta for all of us. Her specialty was pasta with prosciutto. Italians generally eat pasta at every meal. They do not only eat pasta however, they eat many different dishes. I am used to having a plate of pasta as a meal, but for them it is just like an appetizer! I am going to write a post explaining what Italian meals are like because they are so different from anything I am used to. Sometimes you eat fruit as an appetizer and cheese for dessert!

In August it is scorching hot in Rome. My favorite time to visit the city is at night, everything lights up! Walking past the gleaming monuments, elaborate fountains, old buildings and even strolling along the coble stone streets it seems you are walking through a painting. It is stunningly beautiful.

Roma de noche es una belleza. Este es el rio Tevere donde hay muchos bares y tiendas que abren a la tarde.

But, as always, I can only be in a big city for so long before I begin to feel a little caged in. At the end of a week, I thanked Liliana a thousand times for her hospitality and boarded a train for Tuscany! My next WWOOF farm is on the Northern tip of Tuscany near a town called Sarzana. I plan to work there for one month, to learn how to run an agritourism, a farm that has rooms or houses to host guests.

 

One Week in Piemonte August 19, 2011

Filed under: Italy,Piemonte — Nicole @ 7:35 am

El Finocchio Verde queda cerca de Murazzano en la region de Piemonte en el noroeste de Italia

When I arrived inItalymy plan was to go directly to a WWOOF farm where I could volunteer for 1 month and become a little comfortable with Italian. After arriving inMilanI went directly to El Finocchio Verde, an agritourism farm in the region of Piemonte.Turinis the main city in this Northwestern region ofItalyknown for excellent cheese and wine production. I thought I would end up staying here for 1 month, but I left after a week. I loved the farm but there were already many other volunteers and I found I wasn’t being very useful. I may come back in a month or so and see if they need help.

El Finocchio Verde is a running farm with many rooms that are rented out to tourists and a restaurant that provides three meals a day to guests. They have a garden where they are currently harvesting tomatoes, basil, eggplant, cucumber, potatoes, green beans, zucchini and peppers. They have hazelnut, walnut, fig, plum, pear and apple trees as well as grapes for wine production and bees for honey. The owner makes his own bread and salumi, cured meats! The only product that they sell is their prize-winning sheep and goat’s milk cheeses.

La comida del Finocchio Verde era toda casera y deliciosa. Quesos, panes, miel, vino artesanales y frutas y verduras de la huerta.

Needless to say, the food here was amazing. Too good. Honestly, after a few days I thought my taste buds would explode from over-saturation of pleasure. I have never tasted cheese so good. They make over 13 different types of cheeses; my favorite was their fresh goat’s milk cheese. Incredibly creamy and flavorful! Every meal was a feast. We would first sit down and immediately be offered wine (from a neighbor) or beer, at every meal! Shortly thereafter a pasta dish would come in. Delicious pastas, sometimes handmade, like pasta alla Norma (with eggplant, tomatoes, basil and fresh cheese). After a satisfying plate-full of pasta some veggies would come out of the kitchen, roasted potatoes, green beans in olive oil or tomatoes with cheese and basil. Then just when I thought the meal was over, a plateful of salami and ripe figs would appear before me. And of course, for dessert an assortment of cheeses served with honey and an espresso. I gained at least three pounds in the few days I was at El Finocchio Verde, I just couldn’t resist the food! It was so delicious! Too delicious…

(mucho) vino barbaresco del vicino, un vino tipico de PiemonteSalame casero, una delicia!

 

The gardener/cook at the farm was fromFlorence, the main city inTuscany. He helped me a lot with my Italian and recommend I travel toTuscany, where most Italians speak with proper grammar and a very clear accent, unlike in Piemonte, where I couldn’t understand anything the locals said! He also taught me how to make two typical summer dishes, Pasta alla Norma and Panzanella. Recipes below…

After a few days at El Finocchio Verde I received an e-mail from my very good Argentine friend who was traveling inRomeand invited me to come and stay at his friend’s house there. Since I wasn’t 100% satisfied at the farm in Piemonte I decided to take the 7 hour train ride south toRome. Like I said, I may go back to El Finocchio Verde, but I’ll have to learn a bit of self-control before returning to this food paradise!

 

Panzanella

Filed under: Italy,Piemonte,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 7:23 am
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Panzanella: bread salad!

An excellent recipe to use up stale bread, or at the farm we would collect all the crusty ends of loaves and make panzanella with them. Panzanella is like a bread salad, made with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers; it is excellent for lunch on a hot summer’s day. There are no exact measurements for this recipe, just use your instinct and taste.

 

Panzanella

Recipe from a Tuscan gardener and cook at El Finocchio Verde

  • Pieces of stale or very crusty bread
  • Tomatoes, plenty
  • Red onion, a little
  • Cucumber, plenty
  • Olive oil
  • Salt
  • Red wine vinegar
  • Basil

 

  1. Place the pieces of bread in a bowl with some water and let soak for about half an hour. Lightly squeeze the bread to release some of the water and crumble into a bowl.
  2. Dice tomatoes, cucumbers and onion and toss into the bowl.
  3. Season with salt, vinegar, oil and fresh basil. Consume immediately.
 

Pasta alla Nicole

Filed under: Italy,Piemonte,Travel Recipes — Nicole @ 7:20 am
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Pasta alla Nicole: penne rigate, eggplant, tomato, basil and cheese

****This used to be a Pasta alla Norma recipe, until I found out it was way off! Now I call it Pasta alla Niole. Click here to see: the true Pasta alla Norma recipe.*****

I was told this is a Sicilian pasta dish, but a Tuscan taught me how to make it so I’m not sure how authentic the recipe is! The recipe usually calls for ricotta, but any fresh cheese will do. We made this with fresh goat cheese and it was spectacular. Again, there are no exact measurements, just use your best judgment!

Pasta alla Nicole

  • penne rigate pasta
  • Tomatoes, plenty
  • Red onion, very little
  • Celery, very little
  • Garlic, very little
  • Eggplant, plenty
  • Fresh cheese, like ricotta or goat cheese, plenty
  • Olive oil
  • Basil
  • Salt
  • Shredded parmesan
  1. While the water is heating to cook the pasta, cut the tomatoes into cubes and dice the red onion, celery and garlic very fine. Toss all together in a bowl with lots of olive oil and add some salt and basil. Store in the refrigerator.
  2. Cut the eggplant into cubes and fry in olive oil in a large pan. Turn off the burner but leave the pan on the stove.
  3. Once the pasta is al dente, throw the cheese in with the eggplant and mix. Then add the pasta straight from the boiling water into the pan. Add the tomato mixture and mix altogether until evenly combined. Garnish with parmesan cheese and fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.